Adhesion Classification and Adhesive Material Types/Applications

Classification

Adhesive interlinings can be classified into two types based on their adhesive performance: temporary adhesion and permanent adhesion.
According to the definition by the Adhesive Interlining Council of Japan, temporary adhesion is for temporary fixation required in the sewing process, and the adhesive strength is sufficient to prevent sewing slippage in the sewing process and to withstand handling during the process.
Therefore, if the necessary stitches are not applied by sewing thread, the garment will not endure use as a garment and will peel off.

Permanent adhesion, on the other hand, is the ability to maintain the adhesive performance of the interlining during the period of use and handling of the garment.
In this case, the conditions and frequency of washing and cleaning as well as the service life will vary depending on the outer material and the type of garment. In addition, the required adhesive performance cannot be obtained unless the conditions of adhesion are appropriate, so the term “permanent adhesion type” indicates this possibility, and whether the adhesion is permanent in practical use depends on the selection of interlining and setting and management of adhesion conditions.

Permanently bonded interlining is that which can maintain its adhesion against dry cleaning and washing.
Temporary adhesive interlining is a temporary fixing to facilitate sewing operations.

Types

Adhesives used for interlinings are mainly hot-melt type adhesives that soften upon heating to exhibit adhesive performance and harden and stabilize upon cooling. Currently, the following types of adhesives are mainly used.

1. polyamide-based
2. polyvinyl chloride-based
3. polyethylene
4. ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymers
5. polyester-based

Applications

 

TYPE FEATURE MAIN APPLICATIONS ADHESION/
TEMPERATURE
DRY CLEANING LAUNDERING-PROOF REMARKS
POLYAMIDE Wide range of applications All clothing (mainly dry cleaning) 120~160℃ Particularly outstanding Not suitable for high-temperature washing machines Low-temperature type
(100~130℃)
Also available in wash-resistant type, etc.
POLYVINYL CHLORIDE Flexible adhesive texture Clothing in general (especially thick fabrics) 130~160℃ Excellent Excellent Plasticized for use
HIGH-DENSITY POLYETHYLENE Good washability and cleanability Shirts (top fuse) 150~180℃ Excellent Particularly excellent Adhesion requires temperature and high-pressure
LOW-DENSITY POLYETHYLENE Iron-on adhesion possible Temporary bonding (work clothes, etc.) 130~160℃ Dissolve Lack of durability Stitching required
ETHYLENE VINYL ACETATE POLYMER (EVA) Iron-on adhesion possible Temporary adhesion 120~150℃ Dissolve Lack of durability Stitching required
AGE-RELATED DEGENERATIVE EVA Iron-on adhesion possible Knit Clothing, Parts Core Tape 120~150℃ Durable Durable Dissolves in high temperature (>70°C) Berkeley
POLYESTER Adheres well to polyester fibers Polyester clothing (washable, etc.) 130~160℃ Slightly inferior for non-polyester fibers Excellent

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